red light district

so the christmas decorations have been going up slowly for at least the last 3 weeks here in valence, but im going to write it off as cozy cheerfulness rather than obnoxious commercialism. tomorrow is our "fete de lumiere," followed next weekend by the renowned fete in Lyon, which is to say that for the last 10 days, some intense light installations have been going up, including huge tube-like trees and towering calla-lily-ish flowers (pix to follow in a few days)...valance leaves it's christmas lights up in the streets year-round, but tonight was the first night that i saw most of them turned on, and i have to say there's something about the white icicle lights that will never get old. it's just more cheerful with them up! white lights aside, though, there are some superb valence specialties, particularly the cute little christmas trees that shopkeepers have set up outside their stores (apparently only the members of some "valence assoc" put up the trees; tasse et glace isnt part of this assoc, hence no xmas tree, but i think im going to bring emmanuel a christmas ornament for his moss ball anyway) annd the red-paper-covered streetlights. seriously, our charming little rues have been transformed into a red-light district, and the effect is more creepy than christmas. ooh how i love me some valence. this evening mandy and i stumbled upon this very...progressive performance art installation in a square next to the church and the valence museum (i didnt know until tonight that we had a museum. learn something new everyday, non?). freaky noises, huge moving light fixtures, a fountain within which a woman was sweeping water, film projections onto the side of the museum, guys "unpainting" a painting...very interesting. and creepy. and awesome. two points for valence. oh, and add a point for my ghetto gare: its christmas decos consist of super tacky red tube lights strung haphazardly across the doorway and white and blue triangle trees in the driveway. trop moche.